Thursday, March 08, 2007

The Malamute of Venice

Giordano Triptych

Today we explored the quarters "south" of the Grand Canal: Dorsoduro, Santa Croce and San Polo. Beginning at the church of Santa Maria della Salute with its Giordano paintings (above), we wove our way past the Peggy Guggenheim Collection and the Accademia over to the Ferrovia "iron way" railway station.

IMG_0443 IMG_0449 IMG_0450
fish markets20070307 Venice

Heading back east through the Rialto again where the fish and produce markets were running and then to our locanto for a rest. Pizza lunch was a rather unsatisfactory lump of capricciosa ingredients in the middle of the bread - a sprig of parsley would have hidden most of it. Coffee here has also been on the whole disappointing - not the fullbodied creamy cappucino I get at Italian highway stops, but rather pallid watery offerings, even at artisan/specialist stores.

Diesel store and vicinity
IMG_0476Another vaporetto up the Grand Canal, taking us from the Rialto to San Marcuola. I'd steeled myself to get onto the boat without getting elbowed aside by the rabble. Now a bit more accustomed to the muzzle on the boats, Bondi dealt with the squeeze by curling up on the deck as he does sometimes on the London Underground.

one-dog carnevale IMG_0482
On the Rio Terra San Leonardo, we were caught in a tide of kids with bell-festooned hats, who swept us almost all the way back to the Ferrovia. Walking with him in some of these crowds is like riding in the midst of a cloud of love. As we had passed the edge of the fish market a cry of "mal-a-mute" was passed along from one stall to the next like a chugging locomotive.

IMG_0478 Ponte die Tre Archi

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Our real destination was the Cannaregio quarter, and finally we reached the bridge of 3 arches near the north-western edge of Venice, and followed that around to the long straight canal through the centre of the quarter. A short diversion through the Jewish Ghetto (the world's first) and then a long arc around into San Marco again.
Jewish ghetto what are they looking at?
evening in the piazza
evening in the piazza (1)  evening in the piazza (2)
This is very approximately how our route –shaped through their little day. There were many further little loops within each segment as Bondi followed his nose and I followed his leash up and down lanes, switching back and forth to reach bridges or see small piazzas from different angles.

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