Thursday, April 05, 2007

Up the Dalmation Coast to Trogir


Relief on the wall of a Trogir loggia that I particularly liked but which I have not found any information on.

The road from Dubrovnik to Trogir is a single lane, carefully following the scalloped edges of the Dalmation coast. There are many beautiful sections - undoubtedly moreso on days sunnier than today - and a ten minute transit through Bosnia-Hercogovina's Adriatic frontage below Neum.

Because of the large islands just offshore, it feels like we're driving along the eastern shore of a lake in a long drowned valley. To our right the mountains rise sharply to the Bosnian border.
Croatia is a very thin strip of land until north of today's destination: Trogir/Split. Total time driving is 4 1/2hrs, 20%spent in roadwork queues.

Split is hosting a football game with Zagreb today, so we're advised to avoid it. We arrive at Trogir, another little old island town sitting Ortygia-like with a short connecting bridge to the mainland.

Our hotel is further on, on the much larger island of Ciovo, and is in the throes of spring-cleaning, painting and a huge amount of disorganisation.



Outer edge of Trogir islet, with new promenade area.

Trogir itself is a disappointment, a small stone island village that, despite its long history, seems to have little to offer after a couple of hours. The guide-books really seem to have oversold this place, and I have 3 days booked. I think we have walked every street/lane/cul-de-sac on the island that afternoon, and even popped our head in the Kamerlengo Castle, a 15th century edifice built by a Venetian governor, and now home to stacks of plastic seating.

In the early evening, I stumble across a restaurant offering Dalmatian cuisine, rather than the ubiquitous pizza. The staff drag me in (mostly to inspect Bondi), and talk cheerily over the food, and a glassof local plonk.


Road from Dubrovnik; Trogir loggia with horseman relief

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