Sunday, November 04, 2007

Dogs Invited with Big Spending Owners

You'd never believe the number of coastal ports that Cornwall has tucked into its crinkly coastline. After an especially lazy Sunday morning, Maureen suggested that we try some between St Austell and Plymouth to the east.

Due to the rapidly shortening days, we didn't stop in Lostwithiel. Once Cornwall's county town, the rich tin trade caused its demise as the river Foye silted up, a similar fate as that which befell Brugge in the 16th century.

Looe is a busy fishing port with a little maze of streets on the eastern side. More importantly for me, there was a little dog-friendly cafe The Coffee Shop that made an excellent flat white (at half the price of The Beach Hut). The sandy beach at East Looe seems to be one of the very few in Cornwall that doesn't allow dogs, but the town makes up for it with a number of commercial premises posting their dog-friendliness.

As we walked into the centre, a guy abruptly stopped his monster truck to leap out and ask after Bondi, and then seemed to follow us around the eye-of-a-needle loop between the entry road and beach. On the way out, a really annoying man insisted on shouting every big-dog-as-horse comment he could muster.

Polperro is a smaller but prettier port, strung narrowly along the river Pol, with whitewashed cottages thrown up the sides of the cliffs as if they had been left there after being loosed from an inland village in a flash flood.

Wall of faces; pastie-spotters guide; shell house

Cornish piskies (pixies, not Episcopalians)

View back from path to the east cliff.

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